CKP Stone

Established 1995

stone

The selection and placement of stone needs to be carefully contemplated and executed in order to achieve a natural, stable and aesthetically pleasing end result

Stone size needs to be in scale with the pond and yard size. It is also key to support the stone with a concrete collar

Selecting Stone
It is advisable to take your time when selecting stone. The first consideration is scale. You do not want to place 1200 lb. boulders around an 8 foot pond. Your existing landscape logistics also need to be examined so that the pond blends in in a natural way

As a rough guideline, 1 ton of stone is required for every 10 - 15 feet of pond perimeter. Rock weighs approximately 150 lbs. per cubic foot. This means a stone 2.5 x 2 x 1.5 will require at least 2 strong men and a rock cart to move properly

The best piece of advice I can give is to go to quarry yourself so you can select the stone that appeals to you ! Do not purchase your stone from a Nursery as you will pay a huge premium. Do not rely on someone else to select your stone, they may not have the same taste as you. Take your time, walk the yard and choose the stone that you like best. Bear in mind, stone can change colour somewhat over time - ask questions

Types of Foundation Stone I find the most popular stone selections to be limestone rockery, armour stone and cascade rubble. (These may be named differently in your area). Limestone is my personal favourite as I feel it looks the most natural and supports the growth of green moss The key is that you pick only 1 type of stone as your main perimeter stone. There will be a visual "clash" if you combine several different types of large edging stone around your pond Other popular stone choices are waterfall rock, granite and Kingston weathered
	Limestone, as pictured above, is attractive with its irregularities and mossy growths		This cascade stone lends itself to stacking and looks more natural than it appears in this photo

Complimentary Stone Complimentary stone are those you should add to create contrast to your main foundation stone

These would include river rock and any of the various flagstones available (pictured right)

Complimentary stone can be added with your chosen foundation stone and will look great if incorporated correctly (ie. flagstone viewing area)

River rock is a great stone that helps hide the liner while providing a contrast in shape

Although flagstone can be your main perimeter rock, it's unstable if stacked high and I prefer it in a complimentary role

Get to your local quarry - do not buy stone from garden centre's are you will pay a huge premium

Other Considerations
Stone in or out of the Water ?
One key consideration in the placement of the rock is will it be in or out of the water?

First and foremost, fish can get injured on submersed stone, particularly during spawning and feeding. Obviously, sharp stones are a greater cause for concern.

Secondly, there are effects on water chemistry. Many lakes have had there eco systems destroyed due to acid rain here in Ontario. Lakes with limestone bedrock however, do not number among. Many natural stones will buffer the water and provide a stable pH of 8.4 - rocks containing Calcite, Dolomite (CO3) are excellent buffers as they bind hydrogen ions that would otherwise form weak carbonic acids (which lower the pH)

Personally I prefer rock placed in the water as it provides a much more natural look. In my experience, fish injuring themselves on stone tends to be the exception and not the rule

If herons are a problem in your area, large perimeter stone will hinder them from walking into your pond and fishing. Large stone 1 or 2 feet above the ponds surface makes fishing difficult for them

The Debate - river Rock Placed throughout the Pond Bottom
Hotly debated by opinion rather than science, pro rock bottomed pond systems are easily debunked. In all the ponds I have worked on, all but "1" have had a thick layer of detritus amongst the rock. In extreme cases, rock is caked together so thoroughly that it requires a crowbar to separate. These dirty conditions become breeding grounds of pathogenic bacteria and as a byproduct release toxic hydrogen sulfide and methane

Of course these systems can function, even for extended periods but they are so far from ideal. The gradient between a fish merely surviving and thriving is vast - saying my fish look great without quantitative data and an educated eye means very little. Fish surviving year after year is often a testament to resiliency of these animals, not the pond's design or keepers skill set

Also of note is that no one uses rock anymore as a filter medium. The reasons are numerous. It is difficult to clean, it channels and most importantly, does not supply a great deal of surface area per cubic foot for nitrifying bacteria. To sustain large numbers of bacteria, water is pumped through a filter to provide oxygen and nitrogen (food). Rock at the bottom of a pond simply does not provide optimum conditions for nitrifying bacteria to thrive. Lower depths are more prone to becoming anoxic so that key conversion of NH3 (ammonia) to N02- (nitrite), which requires oxygen, is less likely to take place

Other Key Points
I have a rabbit named Token. I don't wait for bacteria to break down the excrement naturally, I clean the litter pan. A pond is no different, it is essentially a cage and hygiene is of great importance. A rock filled "fish pond" is not the same as a sparsely populated stream. In other words, you can't ultimately rely on a natural process occurring in an unnatural setting

read more on the aquascapes system

Positioning Stone
You need to look for rock that will fit together like a puzzle and placement should appear random and not contrived. Not every rock you place will look "right" so be prepared to move some rock a couple of times. A rock cart is an essential tool for even smaller 250 lb. rocks and a pry bar is also a necessary asset

For difficult maneuvering and access, a cargo net works well to provide handles for up to 4 people to move larger stone. Remember, placing rock on the ground is not the same as on a liner as punctures can happened if your not careful. Larger stone obviously needs a tractor and chains/straps. Chaining or Strapping rock effectively is not as easy as it appears and the whole process of stone work is a bit of an art. While your contemplating that next stone don't forget to watch your fingers and toes which can easily get crushed - gloves and steel toed footwear are recommended

Desired End Result
The pond pictured right lacks a concrete collar and has an improper pond water level. The rock placement is poor and the exposed liner is unsightly. But aesthetics are not the only problem as construction integrity can be compromised and collapses can occur. Rock is heavy, averaging 150 lbs./cubic foot. It needs to be supported properly

Pictured far right
A pond built by Clarke Koi features both submerged and emergent rock. There is also plant material which is key to softening the border and visually breaking up the stone. Good stone work is pivotal, without proper placement your ponds appearance will suffer

See more of Merle's Pond

This poor finish really ruins the look of this pond. These rocks look they are about to topple in

Last Modified : October 4, 2008
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