I always say, plumbing makes the pond. It maximizes water recirculation and water quality. It also makes maintenance much easier. In short, a poorly plumbed pond will create more work to acheive an inferior result
Of course it's always easier to plumb your pond properly while its being constructed and this is particularly true with a bottom drain. Still, some improvements can be made after the fact |
As mentioned, pond plumbing is an extensive part of the pond build and it's what separates a great pond from an average one
When considering components it is usually better to stay away from discount items. That being said, you don't need parts with high PSI ratings because they will never be required. For example, the pressure on a drain 6 feet under the surface is less than 3 p.s.i.
This page scratches the surface of the myriad of pond plumbing components available |
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These are used to allow flow in one direction only. They automatically block it in the other. This is vital to maintain prime in non priming pumps that are installed above grade
Swing check valves should be installed vertically in order to operate reliably while spring check valves can operate in any orientation (with a small head loss penalty) |
Coming in all sizes and even with step up capability, rubber couplers adapt all types of pipe, flex and various hoses allowing you to connect them together
Just snap a 5/16 hex bit on your cordless drill and these can be connected or disconnected almost instantly. Forget struggling with insert poly fittings and anti-kink hose - these are poor choices and difficult to work with |
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We use very little rigid pipe. The flex hose and rubber coupler combination is far superior to hard gluing components with pvc pipe
The reasons are numerous. Connections easily disconnect which is a great advantage. Items like pumps and filters can be easily moved - something that is not readily possible if rigid pipe is used |
A venturi is great at adding oxygen to your pond. It is a perfect backup to compliment an air compressor. It operates by being placed in the return line of your pump and the water flow draws air into the water, mixing it and injecting it into the pond. For more information, see the aeration page |
These valves are typically used for easily turning water on or off
We usually install these valves to allow pumps to be removed without flooding |
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Typically used for reducing flow levels
Unfortunately it is often difficult to rotate the handle for many clients so we often substitute gate valves |
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What discussion on pond plumbing would omit the mention of a bottom drain? They are the fundamental key to improving your pond system dramatically and reducing the maintenance
We have a page dedicated to bottom drains if you want to learn more |
These should be installed in systems with fish. Its amazing how fish will find there way out of a tank and into a pump or filter etc if some screening is not in place
These screens are oversized. This is key because by increasing the draw area, the suction is reduced. As a result, they do not typically clog unless inaundated with a lot of debris |
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TPR's introduce water back into the system on an angle and help the whole system function better as particulate is channeled to the bottom drain
We use similar type fitting for jet returns and liner connections for air as well. These fittings are all but leak proof due to the large flange which makes a quick water tight seal |
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These are utilized to make connections in rigid vats, filter tanks etc. Threading on the inside allows for male adapter connections
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We Stock these Components
We have experience using all of these components on pond builds. Please check our catalogue for current pricing |
