The choice of pond lining is an important decision to ponder. This is definitely not the place to skimp - whatever your choice, make sure of its longevity
Factors to consider when choosing a membrane include durability, ease of installation, climate and value for the dollar
We recommend EPDM liners which are tough, easy to install and can handle the freeze/thaw cycle that temperate climates present |
E.P.D.M., P.V.C., Butyl Rubber and Permalon
Of these, E.P.D.M. is what I recommend. Coming in a standard thickness of 45 mil, it is tough, durable, readily patchable and has good elasticity. P.V.C. linings have been usurped by E.P.D.M. because of the latter's superiority on all levels at a comparable price. P.V.C. short lifespan of approximately 10 years is its major downfall. It becomes brittle over time and easily develops holes which of course leak. My advice is not to even consider P.V.C. for your pond, its day has come and gone |
|
I have worked with Butyl rubber just once and frankly was not overly impressed. Although it purports a 50 year life span, I found it very prone to punctures. Strangely it can be ripped easily with minimal force which was not encouraging. Butyl is lighter than E.P.D.M. however and has a canvas like texture
Permalon is a product that I have no experience with. It is apparently light weight and much easier to fold due to the properties of the material and its thickness
Roofing Membrane
In an effort to save money, many opt to use roofing membrane to line their ponds. Of course, this can proceed without incident. However, it is of note that these membranes consist of a different chemical composition as they have been treated with a fire retardant as per ULC standards. This treatment has proven to be toxic to fish and has killed them. As they say, your mileage may vary
|
|
 |
As for concrete, gunite and block and render ponds, I have limited experience in building them. That being said, my very first pond was concrete. We have also applied liquid rubber to stop concrete ponds from leaking on many occasions. It is my feeling the effort and cost are not justified with concrete ponds. However, in the case of very sandy soils and a desire to have vertical pond walls, concrete and block or gunite etc. are necessary. If built properly and cost is no option, a concrete pond rendered with fibreglass will last a lifetime - likely without issue
A major disadvantage with rigid ponds aside from the cost is the fact that the finished look is not a natural one. The pond takes the appearance of a a swimming pool with fish in it
Ultimately as with most choices, there is no absolute best solution for everyone. Let your requirements and taste dictate your choice of pond membrane
|
|
Pictured top
A butyl rubber liner after initial insertion. It will take some time to work and tape the folds
Pictured bottom
E.P.D.M. liner is heavy weighing in at about 1 lb. per 3 square feet. A liner for a 8 x 15 x 5 deep pond will weigh in at about 200 lbs.
Above
This PVC liner was not installed with enough slack. As a result, it has ripped away from the wood that retained it. PVC does not stretch nearly as well as E.P.D.M.
|
 |
Many hobbyists get their start with types of ponds. Unfortunately they have no redeeming value. They are overpriced for the volume they provide, easily punctured and difficult to install because they need to be supported properly
The other huge disadvantage is they are too shallow to keep fish in successfully. If the raccoons don't kill them, the fluctuating temperatures and Winters fury will
|
|
Spray on liners are new to the pond scene and include materials such as polyurea and liquid rubber. They offer some great advantages
- Better Durability - 80+ mil thickness as opposed to the 45 mil E.P.D.M. liner
- Much Better Finished Look - no visible liner folds or rolls
- No Folds to Tape - no liner taping required (saving install time) or potential of debris trapping
- Geo Bonded to Liner - no more separation of underlayment from the liner
- No Wasted Material - most ponds with varied depths require a lot of liner trimming in the shallow end
- Easier and Faster to Install - in particular with larger ponds that require manipulating a 800+ lbs. roll of E.P.D.M. liner
- Styroboard - protective foam is locked in place on the concrete collar
- Bonds to Most Surfaces - can be strayed on wood, E.P.D.M. liner, geosynthetic and concrete
- Potable Water Certification - totally safe for fish
|
On the downside, the cost is very high. Additionally, they are a much more complicated to apply than is made out to be - dramatically more. We sell liquid rubber and have been successful creating wooden holding tanks for fish |
To avoid dead spots and create an appealing finished look, liner folds should be taped down
Getting Started With Folding
After the bottom drain is sealed, fill the pond and pull out all the wrinkles. You will not eliminate all of them, but you should be able to do a good job on the pond bottom to prevent debris from damming up and not reaching the drain
The folds need to be worked into place as they tend to bunch up in the corners. V type folds tend to work best, as the name implies it is a fold increasing in size from bottom to top in an expanding taper
As the pond continues to fill, work your way around the perimeter taping tight folds into place. You do not want to tape too high above the water level - 2 feet at most. If you do, you will likely find the taped folds are too loose or conversely to tight and pulling apart when the water reaches them
With larger ponds, taping can take a week or more. You can only do 1 - 2 circumferences of taping as you have to wait for the water level to rise enough to continue
Although it is tedious and costs more, liner taping should be considered essential and if not undertaken, functionality and aesthetics will suffer
Our site was updated in Winter 2008 to include a page dedicated to liner taping with more info and pictures of the process |
|
Some people want to skip taping and get right to filling the pond. It is strongly advised to spend the time taping |
|
| |
|
|
