We often question our clients to inquire how their ponds are progressing. Surprisingly, we sometimes find that experienced pond keepers are making some basic mistakes that will hinder the performance of their ponds
On this page I will cover the basics and give reasons why certain approaches are either right or wrong
for more basics, see the seasonal care page |
A little common sense and logic can go a long way when applied by the neophyte hobbyist. The key word is "stability". In nature, fish are accustomed to a gradually changing environment. While air temperature can change dramatically in a single day, the local lakes water temp will barely budge. The high specific heat capacity just won't allow this type of fluctuation
Water chemistry also has a regular state of flux of which the fish are accustomed too. [ie. rising pH throughout the day as plants consume CO2 which would otherwise form carbonic acid and drive the pH down]
The bottom line is, if you are to be successful, you need to provide a stable environment with a regular routine that is not stressful to its inhabitants
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You should have water conditioner on hand at all times. This will give your fish a chance if you have a crisis and need to move the fish to a new holding system or refill your pond. And although conditioner has a lower freezing point than water, if it does freeze it will no longer work effectively. I did an emergency health consult to find some dying fish and after many questions, discovered that the water conditioner used for the Spring cleanout had been stored in the garage for the Winter. There was an instant positive reaction when I sprayed good conditioner in the pond as the fish immediately looked better
In another scenario, I had client bring an ailing fish into the shop this past summer [2009]. It wasn't feeling too good, but really didn't look too bad. It was July and the measured water temperature was 15, way below what it should have been. I discovered that the neighbour was running a hose into the pond every day for 2 hours, without water conditioner, to keep the pond "clean". Not only was it decreasing the temperature, the addition of chlorine and chloramines was hurting the fish |
It is a great idea to perform water changes on a weekly basis. Monthly can suffice for well filtered ponds. It is better not to change too much water at a time - 10-20% is the norm
You need to be aware of the temperature change you will create. For example, if the pond is 10 degrees in Spring, a large 50%+ water change can be performed without ill effects. Since tap water is about 9 degrees, the net temperature change will be a negligible -0.5 degrees. However, if this same water change is performed in July, when the pond water temperature is north of 20 degrees, the resulting 50% water change will drop the pond temperature to <15 celsius. This will result is fish death
I had a long time client make this mistake this past Summer when he dropped the temperature from 70 - 50 Fahrenheit. 13 of his 14 fish died. A horrible tragedy. He know better but wasn't thinking |
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It is pure mathematics, at some point in time you will forget that your hose is on and refilling the pond. Every Summer we hear of people doing this and remembering too late. It costs <$30 for a auto timer, far less than the value of your koi collection |
The success of your pond will rest primarily with the water quality. Poor water quality will result in fish illness and possibly death. The big key to understand about water testing is that it will reveal potential problems before the fish show signs. Strong fish may look normal for a long time in poor water quality. If water is tested regularly, poor conditions can be rectified before it progresses and hurts the fish
You can see the reagents are showing high ammonia and nitrite levels in the picture right. But for all intents and purposes, the fish exhibited normal activity in this pond.
Hi nitrates can also cause immunosuppression, delaying the healing of wounds and in extreme cases cause blindness |
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Amazingly we find clients are power washing their filter media on a weekly basis. This cold chlorinated water will destroy the beneficial nitrying bacteria that you are trying to grow. The pond water may be clear with this approach, but clarity does not mean it is chemically clean for the fish
The keys to filter maintenance are to clean the media with pond water and not to over clean |
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Fish get sick first and foremost from the inoculation provided by introduction of an infected fish. Also high on the list is water quality. When this falters, fish will at the very least breakdown with bacterial issues. If parasites are present [often the case in small numbers], those populations will explode as well
Buy fish from a reputable source that use a microscope and make sure your fish are in good condition before introducing more. The use of quarantine facilities are optimal although many do not have this luxury |
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We all know mechanical failure is inevitable. We all also know about murphy's law [Mr. Murphy definitely had a pond]. But yet, so many people run their ponds on just a single pump. Of course the pumps quits when you have gone away or when you are unable to easily procure a replacement. The bottom line, have an air system running and consider having a backup pump on hand |
We often hear of ponds being pumped out completely when a hole develops in the hose to the filter or waterfall. This is unfortunate and can leave the fish without water. If you pond is setup with a submersible pump in the pond, make sure to elevate it 6+ inches from the bottom. This also reduces the chance of your pump clogging with debris
Of course none of this is a concern if you set up the pond properly in the first place with a bottom drain |
Algae is unavoidable and actually the sign of a healthy pond. If you don't have a UV Sterilizer, your pond will experience an algae bloom in the Spring. The water turns green, sometimes very very green. It will usually run its course and clear on its own. Changing the water and cleaning things is not the answer, the algae bloom will die back in time as your plants and filter mature
Make sure to maximize aeration. This drives out CO2 as well as provide oxygen to the fish, particularly at night when the algae is consuming oxygen as well
For more on algae, see the algae page |
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If you keep fish they will eventually get sick. Being able to spot ailing fish quickly is paramount. Then you need to get a proper diagnoses. Unfortunately, many will try to sell you meds based on mere conjecture. Water testing and performing a mucous scrape to view under the microscope ensure you find out what is really wrong, and then take the best steps to correct it |
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