The great thing about the pond building business is that you are constantly learning and trying new things

I have found unfortunately, very little direction from pond books and had to learn most things through trial and error

This "How To" section of our website helps with the actual 1-2-3 and finer points of accomplishing tasks related to this hobby

To create a waterproof structure there are several options. For one, a liner should be placed underneath the stone. I have seen a number of leaking concrete ponds without a liner underlay. Waterproofing powders/mixes can also be added to the mortar mix to create a water tight seal. Liquid rubber or fiberglas can also be painted on a cured concrete thereby rendering it watertight. Personally I prefer the use of an EPDM liner

The big key with mortar or concretes that it should be allowed to dry slowly so that the chemical reaction is properly completed. If the mortar does not cure properly it will not have any strength. To slow the drying process, the mortar should be sprayed down with water several times a day in order to keep it moist. In excessively hot weather it should be covered with burlap to stop it from drying out rapidly. Also make sure not to add too much water creating a sloppy mix, this also lessens the final strength

Masonry cement provides a strong bond as well as being able to deal with freezing and thawing. Portland cement supplies flexural strength and adhesion

You should also wet the stone or even apply a slurry mixture made of portland cement and bonding agent

When stacking the stones, pack the mortar in as best as possible and be aware of aesthetics. It is usually not advisable to stack more than 3 stones (2 layers of mortar between the 3 layers) before letting the mortar cure - stability will likely be an issue if you do

Of course waterfall foam is a good alternative to mortar and it is particularly advantageous when trying to get a water seal between bond liner to stone