Many people think that the excavation of a pond is the bulk of the building process - but this is not the case. It can be physically arduous, but using the right equipment and some savvy will make things much easier. Excavation will likely account for less than 10% of the build if the proper tools and techniques are employed
Another misguided idea is that the excavated soil can be dispersed on your property. First, the amount of soil that comes out of even a small pond is immense and secondly, is not going to be good quality triple mix. Spreading it around the property is rarely a solution...
Soil conditions will dictate how steep you will want to angle the walls and you need to be cognizant of water problems - a french drain may in in order if you hit water
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In most cases soil is removed from the site in a dumpster or bin. Due to weight limitations, the maximum bin size generally available is 14 yards. A bin this size will handle soil for a typical 2,000 gallon pond. If you pond is going to be 5,000 gallons, 3 bins will likely be required depending on the soil type and how high you fill the bins
For smaller loads 4 and 7 yard bins are also available. It's amazing how fast these fill up and although you may think your saving money, two 4 yard bins cost more to rent than one 14 yard - so err on the side of caution when ordering
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The ubiquitous shovel, pick and wheelbarrow are obviously essentials and even with a backhoe excavation, they still need to be utilized to shape the pond shell. A squared shovel works best for shaving the sides
Hammer drills (photo below) with a spade attachment work magic in ponds and sites that prohibit backhoe access. These are well worth the rental price
For larger ponds the only real option is a tractor or backhoe but remember, they usually end up doing a lot of damage. They tear up the lawn and fences usually need to be removed to allow access. For these and other reasons, it is sometimes better to hand dig a small to medium sized pond
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The larger the bucket, the more difficult it is to achieve a good pond shell. The operators talent is also paramount |
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With deep ponds and/or heavy clayey soil conditions, a backhoe is the only option |
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Although this bobcat is great a whisking away the earth, a large portion of sod is now destroyed and will need to be replaced |
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After the rough excavation, substantial time should be spent to shape and contour the pond shell. This will help prevent dead spots and debris from being trapped. It is at this stage that the all important plumbing is installed. I always say, plumbing makes the pond. The Ideal Design page has more concept information
The entire shell should be bowled to the lowest point of the pond where the bottom drain is placed. In this manner debris not collected by your skimmer(s) will make its way to the drain(s) unimpeded. With sandy soils, the slope or grade needs to be more gradual to reduce the risk of side wall cave ins
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