est. 1995
excavation
Many people think that the excavation of a pond is the bulk of the building process - but this is not the case. It can be physically arduous, but using the right equipment and some savvy will make things much easier. Excavation will likely account for less than 10% of the build if the proper tools and techniques are employed

Another misguided idea is that the excavated soil can be dispersed on your property. First, the amount of soil that comes out of even a small pond is immense and secondly, is not going to be good quality triple mix. Spreading it around the property is rarely a solution...

Soil conditions will dictate how steep you will want to angle the walls and you need to be cognizant of water problems - a french drain may in in order if you hit water

Clean Fill Bins
In most cases soil is removed from the site in a dumpster or bin. Due to weight limitations, the maximum bin size generally available is 14 yards. A bin this size will handle soil for a typical 2,000 gallon pond. If you pond is going to be 5,000 gallons, 3 bins will likely be required depending on the soil type and how high you fill the bins

For smaller loads 4 and 7 yard bins are also available. It's amazing how fast these fill up and although you may think your saving money, two 4 yard bins cost more to rent than one 14 yard - so err on the side of caution when ordering


       
Tools & Equipment
The ubiquitous shovel, pick and wheelbarrow are obviously essentials and even with a backhoe excavation, they still need to be utilized to shape the pond shell. A squared shovel works best for shaving the sides

Hammer drills (photo below) with a spade attachment work magic in ponds and sites that prohibit backhoe access. These are well worth the rental price

For larger ponds the only real option is a tractor or backhoe but remember, they usually end up doing a lot of damage. They tear up the lawn and fences usually need to be removed to allow access. For these and other reasons, it is sometimes better to hand dig a small to medium sized pond


Hand Digging
You want to avoid hand digging a clay pond in 95 degree temperatures but sometimes you have no choice ! An impact hammer is a worthy rental item - particularly in clayey conditions

  
The larger the bucket, the more difficult it is to achieve a good pond shell. The operators talent is also paramount
With deep ponds and/or heavy clayey soil conditions, a backhoe is the only option
Although this bobcat is great a whisking away the earth, a large portion of sod is now destroyed and will need to be replaced
 
Pond Shell
After the rough excavation, substantial time should be spent to shape and contour the pond shell. This will help prevent dead spots and debris from being trapped. It is at this stage that the all important plumbing is installed. I always say, plumbing makes the pond. The Ideal Design page has more concept information

The entire shell should be bowled to the lowest point of the pond where the bottom drain is placed. In this manner debris not collected by your skimmer(s) will make its way to the drain(s) unimpeded. With sandy soils, the slope or grade needs to be more gradual to reduce the risk of side wall cave ins

Ground Water
It is not uncommon to hit water - there are many houses built in watersheds and on former wetlands. If you do not drain away the water, the liner may whale (bulge up). The weight of the water in the pond will not necessarily stop this from happening - it is dependant on the actual volume of ground water

Putting stone on the liner to correct whaling is not only a band aid approach but it will also trap debris and inhibit the function of the bottom drain. The necessary approach is to install a french drain. This allows the water to seep away from the pond to a sump. From here, water can be pumped away with an automatic sump pump


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Last Modified : October 29, 2009